ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe Art of a Thin, Crispy Layer
Briouat are folded pastry parcels made in Morocco in both savoury and sweet versions. This sweet version centres on ground almonds, cinnamon and orange blossom water, wrapped in thin filo pastry. The filling is deliberately compact and not too wet: this keeps the inside soft and fragrant while the pastry turns crisp as it cooks. Orange blossom water varies in strength from brand to brand; if in doubt, start with a little less and taste the almond mixture before folding the parcels.
Finely ground almonds make for an even filling, but don’t grind them for so long that they start releasing oil and turn into a paste. If you’re using whole almonds, you can grind them briefly with the sugar; it helps keep the nuts loose. Almond flour works too, though the texture is often finer. Cinnamon adds warmth, while a small amount of orange blossom water brings a floral fragrance. More isn’t automatically better: an overpowering floral aroma makes the almond less distinctive.
Filo pastry dries out quickly once the packet is open. Keep the unused sheets under a clean, slightly damp cloth and brush the strips lightly with melted butter. This layer helps hold the folds together and contributes to a golden-brown crust. Fold the briouat tightly into triangles, but don’t overfill them; too much filling can push the seams open. A little egg white works as glue at the end. Work calmly and keep the parcels covered until they go into the pan.
Frying in a layer of oil gives them an even colour all over and a distinctly crisp result. Keep the oil at about 170–175 °C: oil that’s too hot will colour the filo before the filling is warm, while oil that’s too cool can make the pastry greasy. A kitchen thermometer is useful, but don’t fry too many at once either, as a crowded pan cools quickly. After draining, dip the briouat briefly in warm honey and then set them on a wire rack. This lets excess honey drain off and helps the outside stay crisp.
Serve them as a small dessert after mint tea or coffee, or arrange them on a platter with fresh fruit for a more substantial dessert. The honey makes them sweet enough; there’s no need for extra sugar. You can keep the folded, uncooked parcels covered in the fridge and preferably fry them the same day. Once fried, they’re best eaten fresh. Store leftovers covered at room temperature and warm them briefly in an oven at 160 °C; filo pastry will soften in the microwave.