Salt cod is gently poached and stirred with warm milk and olive oil into a creamy, airy brandade. This version has garlic, no potatoes, and a golden-brown finish from the oven; serve with crusty bread and lemon.
Brandade de morue is closely associated with Nîmes, in southern France. The base is salt cod: firm in texture and distinctly savory, but only ready to use after most of the salt has been drawn out. Buy salt cod for this, not fresh cod or smoked fish. Soaking takes little work, but does require planning ahead. Keep the fish covered in the refrigerator while desalting it and change the water regularly; a thick piece may take longer than a thin one.
This version is made without potatoes. That gives you a brandade where the tender flakes of cod remain distinct, coated in olive oil and milk. Potatoes appear in modern variations and make the result firmer and milder, but they aren’t an essential base. Garlic adds a savory, familiar note; keep the amount modest so it doesn’t overpower the fish. The fish is naturally salty, so only add a tiny pinch of salt after mixing, if needed, and after tasting.
The texture depends on temperature and pace. Warm fish and warm liquid combine more easily with the olive oil than cold ingredients. Add the oil gradually and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon, or use a hand mixer on low speed. This breaks up the fish flakes and makes the mixture creamy, without needing to turn it into a smooth purée. Use milk from the pan in which the cod was gently poached; pour it in a little at a time. The brandade should be luscious, but hold its shape when spooned into a baking dish.
A short stint under the grill gives the top some color and a lightly firm crust, while the inside stays soft. That golden-brown finish is a deliberate choice for this version; you can also serve the brandade straight from the pan. Serve it with toasted slices of baguette for scooping, and put lemon wedges on the table. A simple green salad with a tangy vinaigrette goes well and cuts through the richness of the oil and milk. Flat-leaf parsley adds a fresh, herby note without masking the cod.
Salt cod can be used year-round; fresh parsley and lemon are mainly there for flavor and don’t need to be tied to a particular season. If you don’t have salt cod, fresh fish isn’t a direct one-to-one substitute: the distinctive briny flavor and firm flakes are different. After cooking, cool leftovers promptly, store them covered in the refrigerator, and use within two days. Reheat them thoroughly in the oven or a pan; stir in a splash of milk if needed to make the brandade creamy again.
Put the salt cod in a large bowl of cold water and cover and refrigerate. Soak for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. Cut off a small piece and taste it; if it’s still very salty, soak the fish for longer and change the water again.
Drain the fish. Put it in a pan with the 400 ml milk and add cold water until the fish is just covered. Heat over low heat until the liquid is gently simmering. Poach the cod for 8 to 10 minutes, until it flakes easily. Don’t let it boil vigorously.
Lift the fish out of the pan with a slotted spoon and remove the skin and any bones. Set the warm milk aside. Use two forks to pull the fish into large flakes.
Put the cod in a large pan or bowl. Stir in the garlic and mix with a wooden spoon or a hand mixer on low speed. Add the olive oil in a thin stream, alternating with warm milk, until the brandade is creamy and airy. You may not need all the milk. Season with black pepper and taste before adding salt.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C. Spoon the brandade into a baking dish and loosely smooth the top. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges are hot and the top is golden brown.
Meanwhile, brush the baguette slices with the tablespoon of olive oil and toast them in a dry frying pan or toaster until golden brown. Sprinkle the parsley over the brandade and serve with the bread and lemon wedges.
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