Borlotti Bean Salad with Roasted Pepper and Oregano

Beans that soak up the dressing

Borlotti beans have a thin skin and a creamy, firm centre. That means they hold their shape in a salad while still soaking up plenty of dressing. Dried borlotti beans are a good choice if you want to plan ahead: soak and cook them according to the instructions on the package, then drain. Canned beans make this dish quicker. Rinse and drain them well so there’s no excess moisture in the salad. Cannellini beans are a good substitute; they’re a little softer and milder in flavour.

Red peppers are roasted in the oven until their skins have dark spots and the flesh is soft. The heat brings out their sweetness and gives the salad more depth than raw pepper would. Cover the roasted peppers and let them stand for a little while: the steam makes the skins easier to remove. Then remove the seeds and membranes too, and cut the flesh into cubes. In summer, when peppers are plentiful, this is a handy way to make the most of their full flavour; supermarket peppers work just as well the rest of the year.

The dressing is made with olive oil, red wine vinegar and oregano. Toss it with the beans while they’re still lukewarm. The warmth helps the beans absorb the tangy dressing without having to stir them until they turn to mush. Taste before adding extra vinegar: the roasted peppers bring their own sweetness, and the balance also depends on how sharp the vinegar is. Dried oregano works well in the dressing; if you use fresh oregano, add a little more and finely chop the leaves.

Celery and red onion provide a fresh, crunchy contrast to the soft beans and peppers. Cut the celery into small pieces so each bite has a little crunch without it overpowering the beans. If raw onion tastes too sharp to you, slice it more thinly or briefly rinse the sliced onion under cold water and pat it dry. Add the parsley to the salad at the end so its herbal flavour stays bright.

Cook the breadcrumbs separately in a frying pan with a little olive oil. Let them turn golden brown and crisp, then scatter them over the salad just before serving so they keep their crunch. Serve the salad lukewarm alongside grilled vegetables, fish or a frittata, or put it on the table with bread for a light lunch. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers, keeping the breadcrumbs separate. Stir them in again just before eating so they don’t go soft.