ABOUT THIS RECIPEFrom peppery to mild and fresh
Raw radishes are crisp and peppery; cooking them quickly over high heat makes them milder and gives the cut sides toasted spots. The centers can still have a little bite, so don’t cook them until they’re soft all the way through. That way, the contrast between the warm vegetable and the creamy, fresh sauce stays clear. Sesame seeds add a dry, nutty crunch, while cilantro brings a light, green note.
Radishes are widely available in spring and early summer, but depending on what’s in season, you can find them at other times too. Choose firm radishes with smooth skins; small and medium ones cook more evenly than very large ones. Trim off the leaves and root tips, then halve the radishes lengthwise. If some are noticeably larger, cut those into quarters so the pieces are about the same size. Use a wide skillet so the cut sides stay in contact with the pan.
A hot pan is key to getting browned spots without a long cooking time. Place the radishes cut side down and leave them alone for a while: moving them around too much stops them from browning well. If the pan is too crowded, cook them in two batches. The exact time depends on the pan and the size of the radishes; check after a few minutes to see if the undersides have browned, and pierce one to see if it still has some bite. Sesame seeds toast quickly, so keep an eye on them and take them out of the pan as soon as they smell fragrant.
Tahini can separate in the jar; stir it until smooth first. Lime juice and cold water turn the paste into a pourable sauce. Add the water gradually: tahini can thicken at first before the sauce becomes smooth. If you don’t have lime, lemon juice works as a substitute, with a slightly different flavor. The sauce should be bright and tangy without overwhelming the radishes; keep a little extra on hand to serve at the table.
Serve this dish right away, while the radishes are warm and the sesame is still crunchy. It goes well with pan-fried tofu, fish, or a grain or noodle dish, and can also be part of a meal with several vegetable dishes. If you prepare the components ahead, cover the sauce and store it in the refrigerator, then warm the radishes briefly in a pan; add the sauce, sesame, and cilantro just before serving. This helps preserve the textures.