Roasted black sesame gives this sliceable parfait a deep, nutty flavor with a slightly bitter edge. Sour cherry compote keeps the dessert fresh, while airy, fried rice paper pieces add a crisp contrast.
Black sesame has a distinctive, earthy flavor that holds its own alongside cream and sugar. Briefly toasting the seeds releases their aroma; don’t let them darken, or they’ll quickly turn bitter. In this recipe, you grind them with a little neutral oil to make a paste. Ready-made, unsweetened black sesame paste works too: use the same amount and taste it to see whether it already contains salt before adding more.
The base is similar to a light sabayon: egg yolks and sugar are heated while whisking over a pan of gently simmering water. The heat thickens and aerates the mixture, so the parfait is less dense after freezing. A kitchen thermometer helps you reach 71 °C; keep whisking constantly and don’t let the bowl touch the water. Stir in the sesame paste first, then gently fold in the softly whipped cream. This keeps air in the mixture and gives you a smooth, sliceable parfait.
Sour cherries are readily available frozen all year round and work well here because they retain their fresh, fruity flavor after cooking. Fresh sour cherries are mainly available in summer; sweet cherries work too, but use less sugar and adjust the compote to taste with lemon juice. Cook the fruit briefly so some of it stays whole and the sauce doesn’t turn into a smooth purée. Let the compote cool before serving it with the dessert.
The crispy rice is made from small pieces of rice paper that puff up immediately in hot oil. Work with dry hands and fry just one piece at a time: that way, you can see when it’s ready and prevent the paper from sticking together. Let the oil cool completely before putting it away. Rice paper softens quickly when exposed to moisture, so it’s best to fry it just before serving and store any remaining pieces in an airtight container.
Make the parfait a day ahead and keep it covered in the freezer; transfer it to the refrigerator about ten minutes before slicing so the knife glides through easily. The compote can be covered and kept in the refrigerator, and tastes good cold or at room temperature. Serve thin slices with a spoonful of cherries and tuck the crispy rice paper in just before eating. This keeps the three textures distinct: creamy and firm, juicy and tart, light and crisp.
Preheat the oven to 160 °C. Spread the black sesame seeds on a baking sheet and toast for 8–10 minutes, turning them halfway through. Let cool.
Grind the sesame seeds in a small food processor until they form a paste. Add the 1½ teaspoons of neutral oil; continue grinding and, if needed, add a little more oil until the paste is spreadable.
Line a loaf pan about 20 cm long with baking paper. Whisk the egg yolks and 90 g sugar in a heatproof bowl. Set the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water, without letting the bottom touch the water. Whisk constantly until the mixture is pale, thick, and reaches 71 °C.
Remove the bowl from the pan. Stir the sesame paste and salt into the warm egg yolk mixture. Let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.
Whip the cold heavy cream to soft peaks. First stir a generous spoonful of cream into the sesame mixture, then gently fold in the rest. Spoon into the loaf pan, smooth the top, and cover. Freeze for at least 6 hours, until the parfait is firm.
Put the cherries, 25 g sugar, and lemon juice in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for 6–8 minutes, until the cherries are tender and the juices are lightly syrupy. Let the compote cool.
Heat a layer of neutral frying oil in a small pan to 190 °C. Cut or break the rice paper into pieces about 5 cm across. Fry one piece at a time for 2–3 seconds, until puffed. Lift out with tongs and drain on paper towels.
Take the parfait out of the freezer about 10 minutes before serving. Slice with a warm, dry knife. Serve with the cherry compote and tuck in pieces of crispy rice just before eating.
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