Creamy panna cotta with toasted black sesame gets a fresh, gently tart counterpoint from rhubarb. A thin, crisp sesame cookie adds extra crunch.
Panna cotta literally means ‘cooked cream’ and is an Italian dessert whose soft, wobbly texture comes from gelatin. This version is a modern variation: black sesame paste gives the cream a deep grey color and a toasted, slightly earthy flavor. Use a smooth black sesame paste, not black tahini with added flavorings. The sesame has a distinct flavor, but the cream and milk keep the dessert mild and balanced. A small pinch of salt in the cookie also brings out the nutty flavor a little more.
The ratio of cream, milk and gelatin determines how firmly the panna cotta sets. With 5 g gelatin powder, it sets softly in glasses; it is not meant to be turned out of molds. First let the gelatin bloom in cold water, then heat the dairy only until steam appears. There’s no need to boil it. Mix in the sesame paste thoroughly so no dark lumps remain. Gelatin powder can vary slightly by brand; if in doubt, follow the package directions and expect the result to be a little firmer or softer.
Rhubarb is widely available, especially in spring. The stalks can range from green to bright pink; their color doesn’t tell you exactly how tart they are. Cut them into evenly sized pieces and cook briefly with sugar, a splash of water and lemon zest. Take the pan off the heat as soon as the rhubarb is just tender: it will continue to cook in the warm pan, and the pieces can quickly turn mushy. Let the rhubarb cool before adding it to the panna cotta, or the top layer may soften. Taste the cooled compote and add extra sugar only if your rhubarb is very tart.
Black sesame paste is available at Asian supermarkets and some larger grocery stores. If you can’t find it, white sesame tahini also works, but the flavor and color will be milder; start with a little less and taste the warm cream. The sesame cookie is baked thin so it turns properly crisp. Let it cool completely and store it separately in an airtight container; otherwise it will absorb moisture from the dessert. Serve the chilled glasses topped with rhubarb, and insert the cookie just before serving. The fresh fruit layer and crisp topping also make this dessert a good choice after a meal with rich or spicy flavors.
Stir the gelatin powder into 25 ml cold water and leave to bloom for 5 minutes. Put the heavy cream, milk and 30 g sugar in a saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat until the sugar has dissolved and the dairy is steaming; don’t let it boil.
Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the bloomed gelatin until it has fully dissolved. Add the black sesame paste and salt, then whisk or blend with an immersion blender until smooth.
Divide the sesame cream between 4 glasses. Leave to cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, until the panna cotta is set but still softly wobbly.
Put the rhubarb, 25 g sugar, 1 tbsp water and lemon zest in a small saucepan. Heat gently for 4–6 minutes, turning the pieces carefully, and take the pan off the heat as soon as they are just tender but still hold their shape. Leave to cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C (160 °C fan) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Stir the butter and remaining sugar until smooth. Mix in the egg white, then stir in the flour, sesame seeds and a pinch of salt.
Spoon 8 small mounds of batter onto the baking sheet and spread them thinly, leaving space between them. Bake for 8–10 minutes, until the edges are golden brown. Leave the cookies to cool and crisp up on the baking sheet.
Spoon the cooled rhubarb over the panna cotta. Serve with one sesame cookie per glass.
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