Beetroot Salad with Orange, Yogurt and Crispy Spiced Rice

Earthy, fresh and crisp

Beetroot and orange make a bright contrast: the beetroot is sweet, earthy and firm, while the citrus can be juicy and slightly bitter. Yogurt with lemon adds coolness and acidity, keeping the flavors from feeling heavy. Dill brings a fresh, anise-like note. Full-fat plain yogurt works best; it stays creamy under the warm beetroot. Greek yogurt works too, but it’s thicker. Stir in a teaspoon of water if you’d like a thinner sauce.

Roasting the beetroot whole helps it cook evenly and keeps most of its moisture in the vegetable. Cooking time depends a lot on size: small beetroot may be ready sooner than large ones. Pierce the thickest part with a knife; it should slide in without much resistance. Let the beetroot cool enough to handle, then rub off the skins. Beetroot is often widely available in autumn and winter, but vacuum-packed cooked beetroot can be a practical substitute. Pat it thoroughly dry and roast it briefly to add some color; the flavor and texture will be softer, though.

The rice should already be cooked and cold before it goes into the pan. Cold, dried-out grains separate more easily and fry golden in a thin layer, rather than immediately turning into a soft mass. Spread freshly cooked rice on a shallow tray, let the steam escape, and cover and refrigerate it as soon as it has cooled. Rice shouldn’t be left at room temperature for long. If you have leftover rice, use it only if it was cooled promptly and kept refrigerated.

Cumin and coriander give the crispy rice a warm, spiced undertone without overpowering the citrus. Leave the rice undisturbed for a little while at the start of cooking; this gives it contact with the hot pan so it can brown. A wide frying pan makes it easier to spread the rice in a thin layer. Cook it in two batches if your pan is small. The rice loses its crispness once it sits in yogurt or beetroot juice for long, so scatter it over the salad just before serving.

Serve the dish warm or at room temperature, perhaps alongside roasted chicken, fried tofu or a simple lentil dish. You can prepare the beetroot and yogurt sauce ahead and store them in the fridge; take them out briefly before serving. Keep the crispy rice separate and briefly fry it again in a pan if it has softened. A little chili oil adds gentle heat; leave it out if you’d rather enjoy just the fresh, earthy flavors.