ABOUT THIS RECIPEEarthy, bright and crunchy
Roasting beetroot in the oven makes it sweeter and more concentrated than cooking it only in the broth. Roasting the beets whole and unpeeled helps them stay juicy; once they’ve cooled, you can usually rub the skins off easily. The roasting time depends on their size: small beets cook sooner than large ones. Pierce the thickest part with a knife; it should slide in without much resistance. If you’re short on time, use precooked beets, but drain them well and bear in mind that they’ll have a less roasted flavor.
Onion provides the savory base. Cook it gently until soft and translucent, without browning it: this keeps the soup’s flavor clean and gives the beet room to shine. You can adjust the consistency with vegetable broth. Start with the amount listed and add a little more after blending if you prefer a thinner soup. An immersion blender works right in the pot; for an extra-smooth result, you can also blend the soup in batches in a blender. Don’t fill it too high with hot soup, and hold the lid firmly in place.
Lemon juice does more here than add a fresh garnish. It cuts through the earthy sweetness of the beet and brightens the flavor. Add it gradually and taste as you go, since lemons vary in juiciness. Greek yogurt makes a rich, slightly tangy counterpoint. Spoon it onto the soup when serving rather than cooking it in; this keeps it fresh and prevents the yogurt from splitting when heated too strongly. Dill suits the dish’s fresh, green notes. Parsley works too, though its flavor is less anise-like.
Rye has enough character to hold its own alongside sweet beet. Cut the bread into small cubes and toast them until golden in a frying pan; use firm rye bread so the croutons hold their shape. Stale bread works well here. Sprinkle them over the soup just before eating, or they’ll lose their crispy crust. Serve the soup as a starter in small bowls, or make it a light lunch with extra rye bread.
You can make the soup ahead. Cool leftovers promptly, cover and refrigerate within two hours, and keep for up to three days. Reheat the soup, stirring, and add the yogurt, dill and croutons only when serving. Store the croutons separately at room temperature so they stay crisp.