Bakwan Bayam: Indonesian Spinach Fritters

A crispy coating for spinach

Bakwan is an Indonesian name for fritters made by mixing vegetables into batter. The filling varies from recipe to recipe and can include cabbage, carrot or bean sprouts, among other ingredients. In this version, spinach takes center stage. Finely chop the leaves and fold them generously into the batter, so every fritter has vegetables and a thin layer of crisp-fried batter. The result isn’t a smooth vegetable patty: the loose leaves give the inside a soft, slightly springy texture.

Spinach is most widely available in the Netherlands in spring and autumn, but fresh spinach can be found all year round. Choose firm leaves without too much moisture. Wash them if needed and dry them thoroughly; any water left behind will thin the batter and can cause splattering in the hot oil. Baby spinach works too, although it’s often so tender that you only need to stack the leaves and chop them coarsely. If using frozen spinach, thaw it completely and squeeze out as much moisture as possible before adding it to the batter.

Garlic and ground coriander seed give the batter a warm, savory flavor without overpowering the spinach. Add the water a little at a time: the batter should be thick enough to cling to the leaves, but not so stiff that all you taste is dough. A short resting time helps hydrate the flour. Fry small batches in a frying pan with a thin layer of oil. This lets the fritters brown on both sides without needing to be submerged in oil. Keep the heat at medium; oil that’s too hot will brown the outside before the batter inside is cooked through.

Sambal kecap brings sweet, spicy and sour flavors together. Kecap manis is the sweet, syrupy base; chili adds heat and lime juice cuts through the sweetness. Adjust the amount of chili to suit the pepper you’re using, and taste the sauce before serving. No lime on hand? A small splash of lemon juice works too, although the aroma will be different. For extra heat, leave the chili seeds in.

Serve the fritters straight away, as a starter or as part of an Indonesian-inspired meal. They’re crispiest fresh from the pan; after frying, place them on a rack or paper towels and don’t stack them. Keep the sauce separate so the outside doesn’t soften. If you have leftovers, cool them promptly, cover and store them in the refrigerator, then reheat them thoroughly in a hot oven or air fryer. The crust will become crispier again than it would if reheated in the microwave.