Baked Potatoes with Smoked Trout and Horseradish Cream

Crisp on the outside, fresh on the inside

A large potato can be more than a side dish. Bake it until completely tender, then open it up and roast it a little longer: the skin develops a firm, crisp edge while the center stays soft. Choose large, floury potatoes that are roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Waxy potatoes work too, but their centers will be less fluffy. Potatoes are available all year round; just choose ones with unblemished skins, since you’ll be eating them here.

The topping is deliberately simple. Smoked trout brings salt and smoke, sour cream makes the potato creamy, and horseradish adds a brief, fresh heat. Stir the horseradish into the cream a little at a time: the heat varies from jar to jar, and it should complement the trout, not overpower it. Lemon gives the cream a lighter flavor. Pickles add little tangy, crunchy bites that contrast with the soft potato and fish.

The second stint in the oven is important. Cut or press the cooked potatoes open and loosen the centers a little with a fork, without breaking the skins. This exposes more surface area to crisp up with the oil. Give the potatoes some space on the baking sheet; if they’re touching, the outside will turn soft rather than crisp. A baking sheet is more useful than a deep baking dish for this.

Smoked trout is mild and flaky, but you can replace it with smoked mackerel if you’d like a stronger, fattier flavor. Add a little extra lemon juice to the cream in that case. No fresh dill on hand? Chives work too, although they’re less anise-like and fresh in flavor. You can replace the pickles with finely chopped capers, but start with a smaller amount because they’re saltier.

Serve the potatoes as soon as you’ve added the topping so the skins stay crisp. A green salad with a simple vinaigrette goes well alongside and makes the meal feel fresher; keep the dressing light, because the cream and trout are already full of flavor. If you’re serving people with different appetites, you can also halve the potatoes lengthwise and serve them as two smaller portions. Put any extra horseradish cream on the side so everyone can choose how much heat they want.