A large, crisp-skinned baked potato is filled with tender leek and sharp cheddar. Radishes with lemon and chives add freshness and a crunchy contrast.
A baked potato is at its best when the skin is really dry and crisp and the flesh inside falls apart softly. So use large, floury potatoes and give them plenty of time in the oven. Waxy potatoes stay firmer and turn out less fluffy. Rubbing the skin lightly with oil and salt gives it more flavour and an evenly roasted surface. Prick the potatoes beforehand so steam can escape as they bake.
The filling is all about the contrast between leek and cheddar. Leek becomes tender and mild when you cook it gently in butter; there’s no need to brown it. A splash of water helps the leek steam without drying out. Mature cheddar has a pronounced, savoury flavour and melts in the heat of the potato and leek. Mild cheddar works too, but the filling will be less sharp. Grate the cheese yourself if you can: it distributes easily over the warm filling.
Radishes are best raw and thinly sliced, so their fresh, peppery flavour and firm bite are preserved. Lemon juice livens up the salad and cuts through the rich cheese; a little lemon zest enhances the aroma without adding extra acidity. Chives tie the salad in with the leek’s gentle onion flavour. Radishes and chives are often widely available in spring and early summer, but you can make this dish all year round with shop-bought radishes.
Cut a slit along the top of the potato and gently press the sides inwards to loosen the flesh. This makes room for the filling while keeping the skin intact. Serve the salad on the side or spoon some over the cheddar: next to the warm, creamy filling, the radishes stay lovely and crunchy. A simple green salad goes well alongside, but isn’t needed for a complete lunch.
If you don’t have cheddar, choose another sharp cheese that melts well, such as mature Gouda. You can replace the chives with finely chopped parsley, although the flavour will be less mild and oniony. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat the potato and leek filling thoroughly until piping hot all the way through. Keep the radish salad separate; it’s crunchiest when fresh.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Scrub the potatoes clean and dry them well. Prick them a few times all over with a fork. Rub with ½ tbsp olive oil and the salt.
Place the potatoes directly on the oven rack with a baking sheet underneath. Bake for 60–75 minutes, until the skin is crisp and a knife slides into the centre without resistance.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan over low to medium-low heat. Add the leek and water, cover and cook gently for 10–12 minutes. Stir occasionally; add a small splash of water if the pan looks like it’s drying out. Season with pepper and a little salt if needed.
Toss the radishes with the lemon juice, lemon zest, remaining ½ tbsp olive oil and half the chives. Season with pepper and a pinch of salt.
Remove the potatoes from the oven and cut them open lengthwise. Gently press the ends towards each other to loosen the flesh. Divide the warm leek and cheddar between the potatoes. Finish with the remaining chives and serve with the radish salad.
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