Tender chicken in a rich red sauce of chili, tomato and spices: ayam masak merah is balanced by simple fragrant rice. The sauce builds flavor as it’s gently fried and reduced; this version doesn’t need coconut milk.
Ayam masak merah literally means chicken in red sauce. The dish is often served at festive meals in Malaysia, but its exact ingredients vary from one household and region to another. Its defining flavors are easy to recognize: chili and tomato make the red sauce, while onion, garlic, ginger and warming spices add depth. This version leaves out the coconut milk. The sauce is therefore spicy, savory and slightly sweet, without becoming creamy.
Dried red chilies give the sauce a concentrated flavor. How much heat they bring depends on the variety and whether you include the seeds; if in doubt, start with less and taste the sauce later. Soak them first so they’re easy to grind smooth. Fresh tomatoes add juiciness and a mild tang, while tomato paste makes the sauce richer. Tomatoes are at their best in the Netherlands in summer, but good tomato paste helps give the sauce a robust tomato flavor out of season, too.
Browning the chicken gives it golden edges and keeps the sauce from tasting flat. Fry the pieces in batches so they brown rather than steam. Then it’s important to cook them gently in the sauce: a pan at a rolling boil can dry out chicken breast and make the sauce splatter. Chicken thighs and drumsticks are forgiving and stay juicy; choose bone-in pieces if you can for extra flavor, but bear in mind they take a little more effort to eat. Let the sauce reduce until it clings to the chicken, but keep enough to spoon generously over the rice.
Cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and cloves add a warm aroma without overpowering the chili and tomato. If you don’t have star anise or cardamom, leave them out rather than adding a random spice. A tablespoon of sugar rounds out the sharp tomato and chili flavors; use less if your tomatoes are already sweet. For a milder sauce, you can replace some of the dried chili with a red bell pepper, although the flavor will be less spicy.
Serve the chicken with white rice, which soaks up the sauce and lets the spiced flavors shine. A simple cucumber or vegetable salad can add freshness, but it isn’t an essential part of the dish. Cool leftovers promptly, store covered in the fridge and reheat thoroughly within two days. Add a splash of water when reheating if the sauce is very thick.
Put the dried chilies in a bowl and cover with hot water. Leave to soak for 15 minutes, then drain. Grind them with the shallots, garlic, ginger and 3 tablespoons water to make a smooth paste.
Toss the chicken with the turmeric and 1 teaspoon salt. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy-based pan. Brown the chicken all over in batches, about 5 minutes per batch. Set aside; the chicken doesn’t need to be cooked through yet.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in the same pan. Add the cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and cloves and fry for 30 seconds. Add the onion and fry for 3 minutes, until it begins to soften.
Spoon the chili paste into the pan. Fry over medium heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring regularly, until the raw smell has disappeared and the paste has darkened. Stir in the tomato paste and fry for 1 minute.
Add the tomatoes, 250 ml water, sugar and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Return the chicken to the pan and spoon the sauce over it.
Cook the chicken gently with the lid half on for 25–30 minutes. Turn the pieces halfway through. Check that the chicken is fully cooked; if using a thermometer, the thickest part should reach at least 74 °C. If needed, simmer the sauce uncovered for a few more minutes to reduce it.
Meanwhile, rinse the rice until the water is mostly clear. Put the rice in a pan with 450 ml water and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low and cook covered for 10–12 minutes, or according to the package instructions. Remove from the heat and leave covered for 5 minutes.
Serve the ayam masak merah with the rice, spooning plenty of red sauce over the chicken.
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