Ayam Kapitan from Penang

Rempah, coconut and a touch of tamarind

Ayam kapitan is associated with the Peranakan cuisine of Penang, where Malay and Chinese culinary influences come together. The exact ingredients vary from cook to cook and household to household; this version deliberately keeps the rempah to the aromatics listed in the recipe. Shallot, garlic, ginger, turmeric, chilli and lemongrass make a punchy base. Coconut milk rounds it out, while tamarind adds a mild, fruity tang. The result should be fragrant and rich, but not sharply sour or watery.

Rempah is more than a marinade: gently frying the ground ingredients in oil takes away the raw onion flavour and releases their aromas. Keep the heat medium-low to low and stir regularly; a paste with fresh shallot and garlic can quickly stick to the bottom. The colour deepens and the aromas become rounder as the paste cooks. Give this step time. A blender works well, but add only a small splash of water if the blades otherwise won’t turn. Too much water makes frying take longer.

Dried red chillies give a concentrated flavour. Remove the seeds for a milder stew, or use fewer chillies. Fresh red chillies are a useful alternative, though they do change the flavour a little. It’s best to finely slice the lemongrass before putting it in the blender; the tough outer leaves are less suitable. If you don’t have fresh turmeric, use powder and add it with the other spices. Tamarind paste varies in strength from brand to brand, so start with a little and taste the sauce towards the end.

Bone-in chicken stays juicy as it simmers and adds extra flavour to the sauce. Drumsticks and chicken thighs work well; cut larger thighs in half if needed so they cook evenly. Let the coconut milk simmer gently rather than boiling hard: this keeps the sauce smooth and lets it reduce slowly until it clings to the chicken. If the sauce is still thin once the chicken is cooked, temporarily remove the chicken from the pan and reduce the sauce further, uncovered. Stir occasionally to prevent it from catching.

Serve ayam kapitan with steamed white rice, which soaks up the fragrant sauce. A simple bowl of cucumber or other crisp, fresh vegetables goes well on the side, but isn’t part of this recipe. Leftovers can be cooled quickly, covered and stored in the fridge, then eaten within two days. Reheat them in a pan over low heat until piping hot throughout; if the sauce has thickened in storage, add a small splash of water as needed.