Aubergine fritters with dill yogurt and pickled shallots

Crisp coating, fresh contrasts

Aubergine has a soft, almost creamy bite when cooked. Fried in thin slices, that softness gets a crisp contrast without making the dish feel heavy. Choose firm aubergines with smooth skin; medium-sized ones are handy because the slices will be roughly the same size. Aubergine is available year-round, but locally grown ones are often more plentiful in late summer.

The batter is deliberately simple: flour gives it structure, while cornstarch helps the coating fry up light and crisp. Cold sparkling water loosens the batter; stir it in briefly and don’t worry about a few small lumps. Mixing for too long makes the batter tough rather than light. Keep the slices thin, about seven millimeters, so the aubergine cooks through before the outside gets too dark. An oil temperature of around 175 °C helps: oil that’s too cool makes the coating greasy, while oil that’s too hot browns the batter quickly.

The yogurt brings coolness and creaminess, while lemon and pickled shallots cut through the rich, fried bite. Greek yogurt or another thick, full-fat yogurt holds its shape on the plate. Use a mild vinegar for the shallots, such as white wine vinegar; rice vinegar works too, but is generally a little milder in flavor. Give the shallots at least fifteen minutes to take on the flavor. Dill goes well with the freshness of the lemon, but finely chopped chives are a good alternative if you don’t have dill.

Serve the fritters straight away, while the coating is crisp. Serve the yogurt alongside or spoon it onto the plate and place the warm aubergine on top; this way, some of the batter stays crisp. The parsley adds a green, herby note, but it doesn’t replace the dill in the sauce. As a starter, three to four slices per person is a good guide. With bread and a simple salad, it makes a light lunch. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator and warm them briefly in an oven; they’ll be warm, but won’t be as crisp as when freshly fried.