Apricot Cake with Cornmeal, Almond and Thyme

A Crumb with a Little More Bite

This cake is all about the contrast between soft fruit and a crumb with a little more bite than an ordinary butter cake. Almond flour gives the inside a rich, subtly nutty flavor; finely ground cornmeal adds a gently grainy texture. Use finely ground cornmeal, sometimes sold as polenta or corn grits, not cornstarch: the latter thickens differently and won’t give you the same texture. Some all-purpose flour keeps the batter sturdy enough to hold the fruit.

Apricots are at their best in summer, when they’re fragrant and yield slightly to gentle pressure. Choose ripe but still firm fruit, so the halves keep their shape instead of disappearing into the batter. Place them cut-side up; as the cake bakes, the flesh softens and turns glossy while the edges of the cake turn golden brown. If fresh apricots are hard to find out of season, you can use ripe peaches. It’s best not to use canned apricots: they’re often very soft and add extra moisture.

Thyme provides an herby, dry counterpoint to the sweet fruit. Strip the leaves from the stems and use them sparingly; the flavor should be noticeable without overpowering the apricots. Lemon zest brightens everything, while a pinch of salt brings out the depth of the butter and almond. Beat the butter and sugar until very soft before adding the eggs. This helps make the batter light enough, even though cornmeal and almond flour naturally make the crumb a little denser.

After baking, leave the cake in the pan for a while. The warm crumb is delicate and firms up as it cools; when lukewarm, it’s still soft and fragrant but firm enough to slice. A spoonful of unsweetened yogurt adds a fresh, light note, while crème fraîche makes a richer pairing. Serve the cake for dessert or with coffee. Store any cooled leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within three days; let a slice come to room temperature before serving.